My Israel Adventure: Day Two

Slept as long as I could, but some of my room-mates had stirred, and nearby there are incredibly noisy building works of some sort. I’m currently having tea sitting outside on Jaffa Road, in absolutely glorious sunshine. Just had a very fresh, delicious croissant – though the service was rude, an Israeli trait, apparently. Alana and Mark’s place of abode is beautiful and quaint and Mediterranean – looking forward to seeing it in sunlight.

Seen a lot of things I’ve never seen before today. In the gardens in the Swedish Theological Institute, pomegranates and kumquats growing, and a lizard. After sitting there for a while, we walked along the Ha’Nevim – could see the Dome of the Rock sparkling in the distance. Past the Damascus Gate, bustling with Arab market stalls, sacks of dried beans, boxes and boxes of fruit. Crossed the Green Line.

Through the Herod Gate to the Muslim Quarter of the Old City, surrounded by Arabic signs, people shopping, eventually onto the Via Dolorosa. Muslims streaming to midday prayers. Then the Way of the Cross, with Station V, where Christ was supposed to have touched where he stumbled, so now the spot has been worn into handprint of sorts by people touching it over years and years. Soldiers standing by a Via Dolorosa sign. Arab boys playing football. Then through streets that are more like covered markets, selling sweets, jewellery, scarves, ceramics, crosses, icons.

Up some stairs to the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the outside of the Ethiopian monastery, a courtyard with a dome in to the middle, to bring light to the crypt below. Through Ethiopian chapel to the main courtyard of the church.

Then we went to have food – falafel and salad and baba ganoush. Mark and Alana went to a goodbye lunch for the Institute’s cook, who’s Palestinian and has got a new job at the British Consulate, where she’ll have less trouble getting her entry permit. I went for a walk around the Ramparts – the southern side, the north closed on Friday. Got a bit confused finding where to go, then gave my shekels to a man called ‘Mr Happy’ (or Sahid) who kissed my hand. Amazing views outside the walls of West Jerusalem, the church of the Dormition on Mount Zion. East Jerusalem – with its hillside box houses, washing hanging out to dry. And the archaeological site of the ancient city. Inside, the golden Dome of the Rock.



Went down to the Western Wall plaza – first time my bags are checked. Strange and beautiful sounds from the prayers. An odd atmosphere – it’s very pristine and ordered, less intimate than it looks on TV. Children banging drums in anticipation of Shabbat.

I walked through the Jewish Quarter then back into the Christian Quarter. Started to feel uncomfortable – countless men offering to guide me around, or show me their shop. Walked up the Via Dolorosa with Christian worshippers flanking both sides, doing the Stations along with a priest with a megaphone. Seen so many different types of holy dress. Found my way back to the Ethiopian monastery, and sat to wait for Alana and Mark. Crowds of pilgrims and tourists coming and going.

Once we met up again, we went into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Robust-looking Armenian monks, chanting heartily. Darkness but different points of light, in the gilded paintings, jewels, candles. Huge wooden Sepulchre. Catholic procession simultaneous with the Armenian one. Orthodox icons being kissed. Six denominations – some of which seem frozen in time – Coptic, Syrian, etc.
Then we had tea and biscuits in an Armenian place, with sofas and round metal tables with removable tops. Outside the Jaffa Gate I bought oranges from a seller, who was shouting at the rival stall opposite. Sundown over West Jerusalem; walked through shopping centre at Jaffa (Mamila) – posh shops, with purchasable religious sculpture on display. People hurrying to Shabbat. This afternoon I’ve rubbed shoulders with sacred moments of three major religions, but not much has felt particularly holy to me yet. Not in the way that Lindisfarne does, for example. But so many different works in such a small space, so many different times as well.